I’ve been having some fun in the sewing studio, which means you get a tutorial today! You know I love to use my serger for construction of knit garments, but it can be used for more than that! So I’m going to show you how I used my serger to add decorative flatlocking to the seams of a raglan shirt! You’ve seen raglan shirts with this decorative stitching on the seams, right? It’s such a fun detail and when I decided to make this striped raglan I knew some flatlocking details would be perfect!
So you want to start by sewing your sleeves to the bodice of your shirt. You don’t want to sew the side seams, yet.
You’ll need to set your serger up for flatlocking. On my machine I need to switch to my blind hem foot, disengage the blade, lower the tension on my left needle, remove my right needle, keep the normal tension on the upper looper and increase the tension on the lower looper. You may also want to increase your stitch length.
Once your machine is all set you’ll fold your seam, wrong sides together.
Serge along this seam.
Give yourself nice long tails on either end, so you have a little wiggle room when you flatten out your seam.
Your seam will look like the picture above. Then you just need to give your pieces a little tug and smooth the seam out. It helps to smooth it both on the front and back.
And that’s all there is to it! You can do this on your seams, the triangle patch, neckband and cuffs if you have them!
I added a triangle patch and I love the little detail.
If you want another look you can flatlock with right sides together and you’ll get the ladders on the outside.
Here’s the backside of my triangle to show you what that would look like. Once you’ve flatlocked your triangle and sleeve seems you can finish sewing up your shirt. And then totally impress your husband when you wear your shirt with the decorative flatlock stitches!
That same hubby who was impressed with my shirt also suggested I try making some videos, so here’s a flatlocking video for you if you want to see some sewing in action.
Pattern: Patterns for Pirates Slim Fit Raglan
Fabric: Girl Charlee
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